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Himalayan Climber

Name: Himalayan Climber
Author: Doug Scott
ISBN: 9780871565990

by Doug Scott

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Overview

Doug Scott's historic ascent (with Dougal Haston) of the South-West Face of Everest in 1975 brought him to the forefront of Himalayan climbing at a moment of transition. Their success was achieved from the basis of one of the last old-style expeditions to attempt a major new climb, but the evolution that followed totally transformed the way climbers tackled the greatest peaks. During their descent Scott and Haston were forced to make a hazardous bivouac in a snow hole at the extreme height of 8750 metres. Normally this would have killed or crippled them but by drawing on all their experience they survived it unscathed. It was thus clear that with a bolder approach based on better techniques, and also by taking advantage of improved equipment, the menace of high altitude could be handled. Thereafter an elite international group, of which Scott was a leading member, began tackling the highest peaks in the rapid style used in the Alps. Scott soon completed a string of major climbs on Shishapangma, Shivling, Nuptse and notably on Kangchenjunga, where his ascent of the North Ridge (with Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker) ranks among the great Himalayan climbs. These successes could not have been achieved without a deep inner confidence and an instinct developed through years of experience in climbing throughout the world. He has visited the ranges of the Sahara and East Africa, Iceland, the great peaks of Canada, Alaska and the Soviet Union, in the process making important first ascents on Denali, Pik Lenin and Mount Kenya. He has also maintained a continuing interest in big-wall climbing in Yosemite, the Rockies, the Dolomites and Baffin Island. But it is the Greater Himalayan range that has remained the central theme of his climbing and over twenty-six visits he has climbed in its most fabled regions including the Hindu Kush, Tibet, the Karakoram, Ladakh and Bhutan. It is in this serene mountain remoteness, amongst people with a lifestyle so different from our own, tha

This stunning pictorial record of Scott's remarkable climbing career covers more than 26 visits to the most fabled regions of the Greater Himalayan range, including the Hindu Kush, Tibet, the Karakoram, Ladakh, and Bhutan--with descriptions of each region's geographical and sociological perspectives. 400 color photographs.

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Editorials

Alice Joyce

This handsome volume's text and accompanying pictorial diary--Scott is an excellent photographer--attempt to capture his harrowing ascents among the world's greatest mountain peaks and rock faces. In relating his mountaineering philosophy--"Climbing is all about facing the unknown and the outcome should remain uncertain until the end"--Scott makes his boundless desire for new challenges apparent. The most memorable climbs of his career are chronicled, amid disappointments, and the euphoria of attainment is shared. Unparalleled vistas abound, but when he's describing the rigors of climbing, the language of mountaineers proves arduous to follow. Still, the visuals alone are worthy material for many an armchair journey.