Complete Seafood Cookbook

Publishers Weekly - Publisher's Weekly

No assumptions are made in this ambitious cookbook, which offers much to novice and expert alike. Jenkins, a cooking instructor who specializes in seafood, lays a solid foundation in a lengthy introduction that begins with what to look for in buying fish (bright, bulging eyes, firm flesh), crustaceans (they should be active, with limbs and claws intact) and mollusks (tightly closed shells), and continues with illustrated cleaning and preparation methods and tips on storing and freezing. Included as well is a glossary of ingredients found in the recipes. The body of the book is divided into five indexed sections: first courses; main courses; soups; sauces; and basic recipes, which comprises a wide selection of batters, marinades and stuffings. There are recipes for every taste from the new and trendy (Shrimp, Tomato and Roasted Garlic on Foccacia) to the complexly flavored (Steamed Snapper in Caper, Olive and Pine Nut Sauce ) to those of another era (Oysters with Sour Cream and Cheese). Substitutions are liberally suggested. The recipes are clear, concise and uncomplicated (although some more exotic ingredients, like fenugreek and garam masala, are omitted from the glossary). The ease of preparation and the extensive reference material make this impressive cookbook live up to its name. Photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)

Library Journal

This is an impressive collection of 300 recipes for fish and shellfish dishes from a food writer and head of a seafood cookery school in Australia (all the recipes here have been Americanized). Several good fish cookbooks have appeared recently, but Jenkins's recipes are unusual yet uncontrived, with a truly international flavor. There are color photographs of many dishes; the technique photographs for preparing seafood are abundant and more helpful than those in most other books. Many of the recipes, especially the entrees, are simple, and the headnotes contain useful tips. A good companion to Mark Bittman's Fish (LJ 6/15/94) and Sheryl and Mel London's A Seafood Celebration (LJ 11/15/93).

Barbara Jacobs

Though certainly not the only seafood cookbook you'll ever need, this compendium of more than 300 recipes comes close to offering a variety of unusual and innovative dishes few can equal. Jenkins adds valuable information, in words or in step-by-step photographs, about butterflying and boning fish and fish identification, among other topics. But it is difficult to understand why, for an ingredient touted as low calorie, no nutritional analyses are included; and the reader is left wondering about the amount of kitchen preparation and cooking time each recipe demands, information that's almost de rigueur for today's harried consumers. Nonetheless, a cookbook worthy of purchase.