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First Ascent: Pioneering Mountain Climbs

Name: First Ascent: Pioneering Mountain Climbs
Author: Stephen Venables
ISBN: 9781554074037

by Stephen Venables, Chris Bonington

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Overview

Thrilling first-hand accounts by those who conquered the world's great mountain peaks.

First Ascent takes readers back to a time when there were many mountains yet to be climbed. Using first-hand accounts and archival photographs, it tells the exciting history of world mountaineering by describing in vivid detail the first ascents of the most daunting peaks. At the same time, it reveals the development of climbing styles and climbing technology.

Covering every main mountain range in the world, these pioneering ascents include classic mountaineering, rock climbing, unassisted climbing, big-wall climbing, ice climbing and clean climbing. Tragedy and victory are equal partners in these gripping real-life adventures.

First Ascent includes the 24 most challenging ascents dating from 1865 to 2005. Among them are:

The first ascent of Everest, in 1865, which claimed three lives
Beatrice Tomasson's 1902 climb of the Marmolada south face
American climber Layton Kor's ascent of the spectacular Utah Towers
The first ascent of the north face of North Twin in the Canadian Rockies, one of history's greatest climbs
The first free climb of Yosemite's El Capitan, as recently as the 1990s.

Climbers, outdoor enthusiasts and would-be adventurers will enjoy these exhilarating true stories told by the climbers and accompanied by thrilling photos taken along the way.

Synopsis

First hand accounts and archival photos chronicle the first ascent of 24 of the world's most daunting mountains and traces the development of climbing styles and technology. It includes ascents made between 1865 and 2005 and all types of mountaineering.

About the Author, Stephen Venables

Stephen Venables is a world-renowned mountaineer who climbed Everest without oxygen, pioneering a new route at the same time. He is the author of eight books, including the award-winning Painted Mountains. His most recent project was retracing Ernest Shackleton's steps for the IMAX movie, Shackleton's Antarctic Adventure.

Sir Chris Bonington is one of the world's most successful expedition leaders, having led the teamsthat made the first ascents of the south face of Annapurna and the southwest face of Everest.

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Editorials

The Calgary Herald - Trent Edwards

Trying to decipher between the thousands of first ascents is like pinning a bull's-eye on your head at a mountain guides' ice-axe throwing contest. Your choices are bound to elicit controversy. And yet Venables has likely done the trick with his latest book. Climbs he features in a book full of stunning full-page colour photos were all ground-breaking in some way. You'll come away inspired to notch your own first ascents.

TimesOnline UK - Simon Crompton

There's no one better to dissect the peculiar psychology of those driven to physical and mental extreme than [Stephen] Venables, an intellectual who describes the motivations and emotions of a mountaineer in a series of gripping and remarkably honest books, most recently First Ascent.

Winnipeg Free Press

It's a rare pleasure when stunning pictures of heavenly perches are complemented by truly readable text that puts mountain climbing into both a historical and spiritual context. For all its detail on climbers and peaks, this coffee table gift book may be best suited to the select few, just this side of terminally odd, who prefer the straitened life of a peak-freak.

American Reference Book Annual

Many books have chronicled mountaineering adventures throughout the world but this book is unique in telling the often-harrowing stories of those who made the initial ascent of peaks both large and small. The individual stories of those who had the courage to go where no one had gone before can be viewed as inspiring or insane, selfishly egocentric or generous. However, it makes for exciting reading. The daring feats of the men and women who were lured to the unknown to make it to the top the first time is covered with flair and amazing photography on every page, including archival footage. Historians and mountaineers, both armchair and actual, will find the book hard to put down.... This book is a joy to read, cover to cover, is a fine reference book, and it would make a great coffee-table book to peruse anywhere throughout.

Book News Inc.

Rock climber, writer, and lecturer Venables, the first Briton to climb Mount Everest without oxygen, profiles a sizable list of climbers who are credited with first ascents of summits and other challenging heights in mountain ranges across the globe.