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Reeling in Russia by Fen Montaigne — book cover

Reeling in Russia

by Fen Montaigne
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Overview

In the summer of 1996, award-winning journalist Fen Montaigne embarked on a hundred-day, seven-thousand-mile journey across Russia. Traveling with his fly rod, he began his trek in northwestern Russia on the Solovetsky Islands, a remote archipelago that was the birthplace of Stalin's gulag. He ended half a world away as he fished for steelhead trout on the Kamchatka Peninsula, on the shores of the Pacific.

His tales of visiting these far-flung rivers are memorable, and at heart, Reeling in Russia is far more than a story of an angling journey. It is a humorous and moving account of his adventures in the madhouse that is Russia today, and a striking portrait that highlights the humanity and tribulations of its people.

In the end, the reader is left with the memory of haunted northern landscapes, of vivid sunsets over distant rivers, of the crumbling remains of pre-Revolutionary estates, and a cast of dogged Russians struggling to build a life amid the rubble of the Communist regime.

Synopsis

In the summer of 1996, award-winning journalist Fen Montaigne embarked on a hundred-day, seven-thousand-mile journey across Russia. Traveling with his fly rod, he began his trek in northwestern Russia on the Solovetsky Islands, a remote archipelago that was the birthplace of Stalin's gulag. He ended half a world away as he fished for steelhead trout on the Kamchatka Peninsula, on the shores of the Pacific.

His tales of visiting these far-flung rivers are memorable, and at heart, Reeling in Russia is far more than a story of an angling journey. It is a humorous and moving account of his adventures in the madhouse that is Russia today, and a striking portrait that highlights the humanity and tribulations of its people.

In the end, the reader is left with the memory of haunted northern landscapes, of vivid sunsets over distant rivers, of the crumbling remains of pre-Revolutionary estates, and a cast of dogged Russians struggling to build a life amid the rubble of the Communist regime.

Publishers Weekly

In a book that is part fly-fishing adventure and part social commentary on rural Russian life, Montaigne (former Moscow bureau chief for the Philadelphia Inquirer) casts his flies in Russia's great rivers and expertly and beautifully hooks the essence of Russia's "dilapidated landscape, inhabited by people who knew hardship as intimately as we might a member of the family." Montaigne fishes for cod and herring off the Solovetsky Islands in the Barents Sea, and for salmon on the Kola Peninsula where he first meets Russia's new and often unethical businessman trying to make a money off Western sportsmen. He embarks eastward on the trans-Siberian railroad, where he is accosted by one of the railway's ubiquitous stern women train attendants and almost drugged by three women thieves. His first stop is on the Volga River for Russia's famous sturgeon, pike and perch. He then travels to Lake Baikal and Kamchatka, where he encounters many more people, rendering their tales in an evenhanded manner that often captures the poor quality of Russian life. As far as his fishing is concerned, he catches some, loses a few and often doesn't get so much as a bite in Russia's polluted, over-fished waters. And when he does land the big one, he resigns himself to giving it to his hungry Russian guides. In Russia, fishing is not a sport but a way of life, and he is often ridiculed for using such an ineffective method of catching something so precious. Montaigne's enlightened travelogue will appeal not only to fly-fishing enthusiasts but to anyone wanting to know more about Russia and what makes it reel and spin.

About the Author, Fen Montaigne

Former Moscow bureau chief for the Philadelphia Inquirer, Fen Montaigne writes for National Geographic and Audubon. He lives in Atlanta.

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Editorials

From the Publisher

"Wonderful...a vastly entertaining and edifying work." —The Washington Post

"A passionate and beautifully written memoir...a vivid, compelling...portrait of a country that remains an enigma to most Americans." —The Chicago Tribune

"Think of Montaigne as a Tocqueville with a fly rod who uncovers Russia in the raw." —Sports Illustrated

"A first-rate book...[with] memorable writing...Mr. Montaigne...has netted a darkly comic tale in which he is the picaresque antihero." —The Wall Street Journal

Publishers Weekly - Publisher's Weekly

In a book that is part fly-fishing adventure and part social commentary on rural Russian life, Montaigne (former Moscow bureau chief for the Philadelphia Inquirer) casts his flies in Russia's great rivers and expertly and beautifully hooks the essence of Russia's "dilapidated landscape, inhabited by people who knew hardship as intimately as we might a member of the family." Montaigne fishes for cod and herring off the Solovetsky Islands in the Barents Sea, and for salmon on the Kola Peninsula where he first meets Russia's new and often unethical businessman trying to make a money off Western sportsmen. He embarks eastward on the trans-Siberian railroad, where he is accosted by one of the railway's ubiquitous stern women train attendants and almost drugged by three women thieves. His first stop is on the Volga River for Russia's famous sturgeon, pike and perch. He then travels to Lake Baikal and Kamchatka, where he encounters many more people, rendering their tales in an evenhanded manner that often captures the poor quality of Russian life. As far as his fishing is concerned, he catches some, loses a few and often doesn't get so much as a bite in Russia's polluted, over-fished waters. And when he does land the big one, he resigns himself to giving it to his hungry Russian guides. In Russia, fishing is not a sport but a way of life, and he is often ridiculed for using such an ineffective method of catching something so precious. Montaigne's enlightened travelogue will appeal not only to fly-fishing enthusiasts but to anyone wanting to know more about Russia and what makes it reel and spin.

Library Journal

This reviewer must come clean immediately and acknowledge that she knows next to nothing about flyfishing, notwithstanding her having a son who spends most weekends up to his hips in icy New York streams, rod in hand. She does, however, have an enduring interest in things Russian and consequently landed this interesting assignment. Aksakov was a great autobiographical writer of 19th-century Russia, but his first success was with a "sporting trilogy" to which this book belongs. A classic of both Russian and sport literature, known to most enthusiasts, including Montaigne, it was completed in 1846 and expresses Aksakov's passion not only for the sport but for nature in general. After vignette-like discussions of various equipment, the book breaks out into charming discussions of various fish from minnows to burbot that will interest naturalists as well as historically minded flyfishers. Two appendixes include Aksakov's fishing prose and poetry. This won't fit into every popular sports collection, but the prose is perfectly accessible and the book entertaining beyond its obvious historical interest. Montaigne, a former Moscow bureau chief for the Philadelphia Inquirer, has written a book that is less a guide to flyfishing in Russia than a political travelog with his fishing trips as the, ahem, hook. Montaigne determined to flyfish his way across Russia, said to contain in its far reaches some beautiful streams still teeming with fish, but what he encountered repeatedly was bad news for both fish and humans: a countryside despoiled by exploitation and a people so desperate after the fall of communism took away what security they had that many survive by wholesale poaching. Despite some fascinating characters, this is a pretty downbeat trip, which Montaigne himself rarely seemed to enjoy. Probably only readers deeply interested in contemporary Russia will want to go along with him. Barbara Hoffert, "Library Journal"

Kirkus Reviews

A quiet, evocative ramble through the Russian countryside by a former Philadelphia Inquirer Moscow bureau chief, who had made it his quest to fly-fish from the White Sea to Kamchatka and visit every Stalinist labor camp along the way. Montaigne shucked his newspaperman's job to do a little fishing. He had fallen for Russia wholesale, wanted to get to know its heartland and its backwaters. To break the ice with locals, he would cast his line upon their waters, for Russians are smitten with fishing. And he does fish up a storm—casting for Solovetsky trout in narrow canals built by 15th-century monks, trying to entice the near-mythical Siberian taimen to bite his streamer, wading for steelhead in Kamchatka, and praying for Atlantic salmon in the rivers of the Kola Peninsula, mostly without success; rather, what he catches is a host of brief encounters with folks who live thereabouts. They share with him their feelings about life after communism—which range from lousy to a belief they they are in a land full of opportunity, with a large amount of corruption, decay, organized crime, and bootlegging in between. But what makes this book such a soulful affair, what gives it its warmth, is that everyone Montaigne chances upon shares their meager hoard with him, without hesitation. Sausage and bread are always pulled out, perhaps a fish soup, and always vodka, which flows through the story as wide and deep as the Volga. Montaigne's Russians have not just a canny knack for surviving in an anarchy masquerading as a democracy, they have an enviable talent for living with brio. And if there is a Russian penchant for fatalism, it's thrown into sharp relief as Montaigne describes his foraysto the most remote gulag outposts, relics that exude to this day an unearthly grimness. The very stuff of footloose travel—strange companions, confounding situations, unexpected moments of fear and eye-popping wonder—told with a journalist's eye for detail.

Book Details

Published
April 1, 1999
Publisher
St. Martin's Press
Pages
292
Format
Paperback
ISBN
9780312208097

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