Rockenwagner

Publishers Weekly - Publisher's Weekly

Infusing traditional German cuisine with Asian flavors, Rckenwagner, owner of an eponymous restaurant in Santa Monica, Calif., makes his own distinctive contribution to California's culinary cachet. A cooking-style cousin of Chicago chef Charlie Trotter, Rckenwagner meticulously presents some 150 recipes for dishes served at his establishment. Ambitious and minutely attentive to detail and presentation, many of these recipes will prove daunting and time-consuming even for highly skilled home chefs. Most recipes, such as a Roasted Quail with Pomegranate Reduction and Bread and Bacon Stuffing on Bitter Greens, call for specialty ingredients (e.g., Thai curry paste and fresh pomegranate juice), homemade staples (curry oil) and separate preparation of many edibles that are painstakingly assembled on the plate. Others challenge the limits of home kitchens (e.g., the pretzel dough used in buns and breads can be too stiff for home mixers to handle). Nevertheless, cooks of all levels can consult this guide for culinary secrets, including adding vinegar to balance out sauces. The dazzling repertoire includes Asparagus Cornucopias with Lobster Medallions and Balsamic Sauce, Grilled Marinated Portobello Mushroom Sandwiches, Lamb Loin with a Tarragon Crust and Red Wine Sauce and Macaronnade de Chocolate. Ambitious cooks who don't want to tackle Rckenwagner's recipes in all their complexity will find ample inspiration here for their own inventions and variations.(Mar.)

Library Journal

English, chef/owner of Olives, a well-known Boston restaurant, likes Mediterranean-inspired food with strong flavor combinations, what he characterizes as "refined rustic." It's a good description of dishes such as Chilled Black Olive Spaghetti Salad and Gorgonzola-Stuffed Figs with Balsamic Glaze. Other more refined, less rustic dishes feature foie gras, truffles, and other such indulgences. The recipes themselves, however, are generally straightforward and refreshingly approachable for a chef's cookbook. Rckenwagner grew up in a restaurant family in Germany, trained in French restaurants in Europe and the United States, and has been increasingly influenced by Asian cuisine since he opened Rckenwagner in Los Angeles ten years ago. He defines his style of cooking as a combination of old European and Pacific Rim cuisines. His eclectic menu is just as likely to feature Salmon Tempura with Daikon Salad as Roasted Quail with Pomegranate Reduction. Rckenwagner is a talented chef, and the recipes are clearly written, but many are rather involved; fans may prefer to read the book and then sample the food at the restaurant. Both these books are recommended for their respective area libraries and others where restaurant cookbooks are popular.