Overview
“Out of the water, I am nothing.”—Duke Kahanamoku “All I need are some tasty waves and a cool buzz and I’m fine.”—Jeff Spicoli All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life. In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life—or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it.And because, as Brock Little remarks, “Adrenaline is a funny drug,” a book about surfing must have its dose of humor—and this one does, along with surfing’s undeniable rush. “If you accept all the doctrines of society, you’ll never be a surfer.”—Nat Young Opt out, read on, surf’s up!
Synopsis
All sports have their cultures, but surfing alone seems to have created a whole philosophy of life.
In this book, wit and wisdom and living for the wave come together to point the way to the ride of your life—or at least an enjoyable read! With the words of sages of the surf as unlikely as Mark Twain and Jack London and as close to the heart of the sport as Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Nat Young, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, this book explains the meaning of life as only surfers can understand it.